BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Out of all the Balkan countries I’ve visited, Bosnia and Herzegovina is the one that left the deepest mark on me. It’s a place where breathtaking nature, complex history, religious diversity, and an enduring human spirit collide.
The scars of the 1990s conflict remain visible, not just in the bullet-riddled facades or the sidewalk mortar impacts filled with paint (known as “Sarajevo Roses”), but in the stories of those who lived through it. Visiting the sites where these tragedies took place or walking through the underground Tunnel of Hope in Sarajevo offers a sobering look at human resilience.
Known as the “Jerusalem of Europe,” Sarajevo is a seamless blend of cultures. There is a literal “Meeting of Cultures” line painted on the ground, Here, you can look one direction and find Austro-Hungarian architecture, and then turn your head the other way and step into the Ottoman era. It’s a special city where church bells ring right alongside the call to prayer. The city is best experienced slowly: over copper pots of Bosnian coffee, plates of ćevapi, and petting the resident street cats.
Beyond the cities lies raw, stunning nature. High in the Bjelašnica mountains, the isolated village of Lukomir feels frozen in time above one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Further south, no trip is complete without watching the icy Neretva River rush beneath Mostar’s iconic Stari Most before wandering the cobblestone Kujundžiluk bazaar.
Bosnia and Herzegovina’s beauty, warm people, and compelling history stole my heart. Here are a few favorite moments from an unforgettable journey.
Spotlight: Faces of Bosnia and Herzegovina
From the high-altitude peaks of Lukomir to the old-town bazaars of Sarajevo: take a look into the weavers, master craftsmen, and locals who carry the soul of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Latest from Bosnia and Herzegovina
Meeting Vejsil and Rahima: A Glimpse into Everyday Life in Lukomir, Bosnia
It’s easy to photograph the stone houses and dramatic canyon views of Lukomir, but as usual, my most lasting memories of Bosnia’s most remote traditional…
A Night in Lukomir: Bosnia’s Last Traditional Mountain Village
Most visitors to the village of Lukomir do a day trip from Sarajevo combined with a lengthy (and by all accounts, beautiful) hike. I did…