ALBANIA
Albania is apparently having a moment… and I get it. You have similar coastal scenes as nearby Greece, without that hefty price tag. You get beautiful ancient stone towns, without the suffocating crowds. I was able to travel much of the country, from the northern mountains (which are actually known colloquially as the “Albanian Alps”) to the southern coastline, where the waters are just as clear as the Aegean.
But beneath the diversity of Albania’s nature lies a deeper, more complex story. Until relatively recently (within my lifetime), the country was locked away from the world, only reopening to tourism in the early 1990s. Prior to that, a fiercely isolationist communist regime was in control. While there is stunning nature and incredible food to take in while you visit, I would encourage everyone to learn the history as well.
When in Tirana, the capital city, you must go to Bunk’Art (a massive, subterranean atomic bunker turned museum that chronicles the torture inflicted on the Albanian population) and the House of Leaves, a museum that exposes the chilling breadth of the communist party’s secret surveillance program. There are literally thousands of concrete bunkers scattered across the country, built by a paranoid dictator. No matter where you go, you will inevitably cross paths with this dark history.
But there is also so much light in this country. In the historic towns of Berat and Gjirokastër, I found myself lost in a maze of white-washed Ottoman houses, ancient stone architecture, and old-world bazaars that felt completely frozen in time.
As is so often the case, though, the true brilliance of the country was in its people. One of the most memorable dining experiences I have ever had anywhere in the world was in Berat, at a tiny place called Lili’s Homemade Food (consider this a teaser, as a full article about that unforgettable night is coming soon!).
Albania is a land of genuine hospitality, proud traditions, and a resilience that you can feel in every conversation. This is a collection of my stand-out moments through a country that is no longer Europe’s best-kept secret, but is, undeniably, a rising star.
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