INDONESIA
Indonesia is, of course, most famous for Bali, but the country is so much more than a single destination. It is a sprawling chain of over 17,000 islands that is as diverse as it is beautiful. Like many travelers, my journey began in Bali, but I quickly realized that this island is just the famous ‘cover’ of a much deeper book.
In Bali, I looked past the curated cafes and famous beach clubs to find the island’s quieter, spiritual pulse. I spent my early mornings in the dewy grass of the rice paddies, watching the sun rise over Mount Batur, and getting lost in the busy, humid energy of local markets. Being invited to witness a once-yearly temple ceremony was a humbling experience. Walking through streets lined with Penjors (towering, decorated bamboo poles that symbolize the mountain and offer gratitude) and seeing the daily offerings on the sidewalk was a constant reminder of the deep devotion that defines daily life here.
But the deeper I went, the more the country surprised me. Traveling to Sulawesi, one of the least-visited islands, offered a completely different perspective. While Bali is famously Hindu, Sulawesi is predominantly Muslim. While Bali is filled with international travelers, in Sulawesi, I was the one being asked for photos by locals who had rarely seen a Western tourist. While you can pay for the instafamous “flying dress” photoshoots in Bali, Sulawesi offers a connection to a culture that remains largely untouched by mass tourism.
Nothing could have prepared me for the highlands of Tana Toraja and their complex relationship with death. Witnessing the Ma’nene ceremony, where families exhume and care for their ancestors, was both fascinating and surreal. Sitting at a Rambu Solo funeral for a woman who had passed away two years prior was a moment that challenged every Western concept I had of grief. In Toraja, death isn’t an ending. It’s a long transition.
From the sunrise offerings in Bali to the ancient, sacred traditions of the Sulawesi highlands, Indonesia taught me that the most extraordinary things happen when you’re willing to go just a little bit further.
Spotlight: Faces of Indonesia
Faces of Bali
Beyond Bali’s mass tourism lies a quiet, spiritual pulse—one that has earned this island its name: the Island of the Gods. Get a glimpse into the local culture and people of this special place.
Faces of Sulawesi
From coastal Makassar to the highlands of Tana Toraja—a look into the fishermen, ceremony-goers, and Torajan people of one of Indonesia’s least visited islands.
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